Sunday, July 25, 2010

Hesitant Hedonism (8 of 10)

If a flock of starlings can strip a vineyard of a single year's crop of Chardonnay grapes in days, imagine the greater fear to olive ranchers when the presence of the dreaded olive fly can signify years of devastation. Since medieval times, to scare away the starlings, falconers are brought in to protect the juicy wine grapes. However, once the presence of the fly is detected a different kind of immediate action is required. Chemical controls must be implemented at once and aerial applications can be the fastest way to get the job done. Who on earth has an airplane available without a reservation on a festival weekend?

Chuck, Lena and Jesse are in the reviewing stand along Oroville's parade route. It's the morning after the Olive Festival Gala and the main street is lined with the citizens who've come from miles around for the annual parade of bands, floats and antique tractors. At the very moment the high school marching band drums signal the start of the parade, workers back at the Risconi ranch find an insect trap with several of the nasty little flies inside. One of the workers, with the trap in hand, rushes to his pickup truck and heads to town.

Chuck, Lena and Jesse grin and wave as Sarah Kay and Squint clatter by on an antique tractor driven by Squint's handsome nephew Cesar, a third year aggie at the university. Sarah Kay sits beside him looking happy. "Appears she's found a guy her own age," ruminates Chuck. "And a damn good thing it is, " says Jesse as he jabs his friend in the ribs with his elbow. "Nuff said?" asks Chuck. "You are only human, my friend," assures the young lady's father.

At the end of the parade all the floats and farm equipment are being stored in a huge warehouse. In the happy confusion Squint and Cesar explain the secrets of making olive oil to Sarah Kay. Squint offers that, "grapes can be manipulated enough to make different wines from the same fruit. This is not true of olive oil. The oil will taste solely of the olive that was used to make it." Cesar continues the thought, "You will consume the place, the micro-climate, the character of the soil, and too, the character of the human who produced it, and the care with which it has been handled and pressed." Suddenly the worker from the ranch rushes in and does nothing more than show the trap of flies to Squint. With that, they all rush out.

Over at the Artisan Market, Chuck instructs Jesse on the proper way to conduct a formal oil tasting. "Go ahead. Pour a little into a clean wineglass. Cup it between your fingers the way you would a brandy snifter, warming it, and then cover the top with your other hand. Swirl it around a few times. Now remove your hand and smell the aroma. That's it. Now, take a tiny sip. Consider the viscosity. How does it feel on the roof of your mouth? Suck in air through your teeth so that the flavor is distributed throughout your mouth. Consider the taste and the feel. Consider what flavors are invoked. Are there whispers of almond nuttiness, cucumber,freshly mowed grass, apples green pepper or raw artichoke?"

It is silent inside the pickup truck as it races through thousands of acres of silver tipped olives trees. Sarah Kay breaks the silence by softly musing, "For thousands of years, the olive branch and olive oil have been symbolic of all that is good and noble in mankind, and of permanence and perseverance." Everyone nods their agreement as the truck kicks up a rooster tail of dust behind it.

Copyright 2010 G. Leo Maselli

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